Installation Kits

Hi-Temp solar collectors are connected to each other and to the pool piping system with two kits. We supply two additional kits for special applications. The following shows what each kit contains.

Part No. 1101 Hi-Temp Collector Kit

Use this kit to connect two solar collectors together and to fasten the headers to the mounting surface. One is required for each solar collector.

Part No. 1102 Hi-Temp System Kit

Use this kit to connect the solar collector headers to the pool piping system. One is required for each row of solar collectors.

Part No. 1106 Hi-Temp Vacuum ReliefValve Kit

Use one of these kits on any Hi-Temp system that has a solar collector area greater than 300 square feet and is more than three feet above the pool surface.

Part No. 1103 Hi-Temp Split Row Kit

Use one of these kits for each gap in a row of solar collectors, to clear a chimney, for example.

Part No. 1104 Hi-Temp Strap Hold-Down Kit, 80 Ft

Use this kit to hold down up to 80 linear feet of Hi-Temp solar collector. You may use multiples of thiskit for larger systems.

Part No. 1105 Hi-Temp Strap Hold-DownKit, 25 Ft.

Use this kit to hold down up to 25 linear feet of Hi-Temp solar collector. You may use multiples of this kit for larger systems.

 Horizontal Solar Collector Installation. Refer to Figure 1.

Before Beginning:You will need screws to fasten the collector headers to the mounting surface. We recommend stainless steel ¼-inch diameter sheet metal screws or lag screws. The minimum length should be equal to the thickness of the mounting surface plus ¼-inch. If stainless steel is not available, use screws with heavy hot clip galvanized plating. You will need two screws for each collector plus two, for each row of collectors. In addition you will need a top grade silicone or polyurethane sealer to seal the screw holes. The tools you will need are an electric drill with 3/16-inch drill and a driver to fit your hold down screws. In addition you will need a 5/16-inch hand hex driver or a screw driver for coupling clamps.

If you are using Solarbond to fasten the absorber surface to the roof you will also need a "quart" size caulking gun. If the slope is shallow enough and if you prefer, you may use a Strap Hold-Down Kit. Follow the instructions in the Vertical Solar Collector Installation  section.

Position the solar collectors: Multiply 49_1/2 inches by the number of solar collectors and measure up the roof that distance. Measure back down the roof 1¼- inches and mark the closest shingle-or tile edge. That shingle or tile line will be the top edge of the uppermost solar collector absorber surface. Measure along that line the length of the solar collector. Make sure you have room at the end for header hold-down clamps and piping.

Now decide which end of the collector array will be the inlet end and which end will be the outlet end. The' water from the pool pump must enter the collectors at the lowest point at one end and leave the collectors to return to the pool from the highest point at the other end. See Figure 1. Try to have the outlet at the end closest to the pool pump. The inlet end must always be slightly lower on the roof than the outlet end. That allows water to drain from both headers to prevent damage from freezing. If this is not possible, provide a drain at the lowest end of the outlet header and open it before freezing weather occurs.

Attaching to the Roof: If the solar collector was shipped in a carton remove it from the carton, leaving the inner wrapping in place.

Attach a coupling hose to each end of the outside header. If this is to be the outlet header, use a 3_1/2-inch coupling from the system kit at the upper end. If not, use a 2_1/2-inch coupling from the collector Kit at both ends. Tighten the hose clamp. Tighten only until you see the hose bulging into the slots in the clamp. Do not over-tighten.

Slide a Header Hold-Down Clamp over each coupling and tighten only enough to hold it in place. See Figure 2.

Lift the collector to the roof and align the upper edge of the rolled up collector with the shingle or tile line you marked. Be sure the collector is at a right angle to that line so that it will roll out parallel with it. Remove the wrapping. Next, you should fasten the header to the roof. Figure 2 shows the Header Hold Down Clamp Part #2022 between two Coupling Clamps Part # 10 12. You have one Coupling Clamp and one Hold-Down Clamp at each end of the first header and your collector is positioned to roll out horizontally along the roof. Drill through the hole in each Hold-Down Clamp and through the roof with a 3/16 diameter drill. Fill the holes with a top grade silicone or polyurethane sealer, let some build up on the roof surface and drive a hold-down screw through the clamp into each hole.

Next, you will be unrolling the solar collector absorber surface and attaching it to the roof as it unrolls.

Insert a Solarbond mastic cartridge in the caulking gun and cut off the nozzle at a point that will give you a 1/2-inch diameter bead of mastic. Lay down the first bead of mastic 24 inches from the first header. After that put a bead every 18 inches as you unroll the absorber. After you roll over a bead press down the absorber surface firmly into it. Press between the tubes, not on them. The mastic will spread out to a width of approximately 2 inches if you do if properly. Important: all mastic beads must run vertically up and down the roof. If you run the beads horizontally they will create dams for rainwater that may cause roof leaks. Hint: If you end the mastic beads 2 inches from the edge of the absorber at the top and bottom the mastic will not squeeze out and the job will look much neater.

When you get to the end install the correct coupling on each end of the header, clamp it and add a Hold-Down Clamp Part #2202. Remember, short couplings connect headers together and attach End Caps and Vacuum Relief Valves. Long couplings connect to the pool system and to Split Row Kits. Refer to Figure 1 for location. Drill the holes, seal them and drive in hold-down screws.

Now bring the second collector to the roof Connect the outside header to the matching header on the first collector header as shown in Figure 2. Add a Coupling, Coupling Clamp and Hold-down Clamp at the opposite end. Drill, seal and fasten that end of the header to the roof as before. Follow the same steps as with the first collector to unroll the absorber, fasten it down and connect and fasten down the header at the other end. Finish off the system with the connecting components as shown in Figure 1.

Vertical Solar Collector Installation

Before Beginning:You will need screws to fasten the collector headers to the mounting surface. We recommend stainless steel ¼-inch diameter sheet metal screws or lag screws. The minimum length should be equal to the thickness of the mounting surface plus ¼-inch. If stainless steel is not available, use screws with heavy hot clip galvanized plating. You will need two screws for each collector plus two, for each row of collectors. In addition you will need a top grade silicone or polyurethane sealer to seal the screw holes. The tools you will need are an electric drill with 3/16-inch drill and a driver to fit your hold down screws. In addition you will need a 5/16-inch hand hex driver or a screw driver for coupling clamps.

If you are using Solarbond to fasten the absorber surface to the roof you will also need a "quart" size caulking gun. If the slope is shallow enough and if you prefer, you may use a Strap Hold-Down Kit. Follow the instructions in the Vertical Solar Collector Installation  section.

Positioning the Solar Collectors:Note from Figure 3 that the inlet headers ran along the lower part of the roof parallel with the eave and the outlet headers are at the top near the ridge. Determine where on the roof you want to position the solar system and how far up from the eave you want the lower edge of the solar collectors to be. Mark that point and measure up the roof a distance equal to the length of the solar collectors plus 3/4 inch. That is the starting point. It will be the centerline of the screw that fastens down the first Hold-Down Clamp Part #2022 (see Figure 2). Mark that point. Multiply the number of collectors by 49_1/2 inches, measure along the roof that distance and mark the end point. That will be the opposite end of the collector array. Be sure you have allowed 8 inches for connecting piping at both ends.

Go back to the starting point and snap a chalk line from it along the roof to the opposite end. That chalk line should slope toward the inlet end 1/4 inch times the number of solar collectors. For example, six collectors mean a total slope of 1_1/2 inches. That slope allows the collectors to fully drain when they are shut off.

Measure 49_1/2 inches from the starting point along the chalk line and mark that point. Drill through the roof with a 3/16 diameter drill at that point and also at the starting point.

Attaching to the Roof: If the solar collector was shipped in a carton remove it from the carton, leaving the inner wrapping in place.

Attach a coupling hose to each end of the outside header. If this is to be the outlet header, use a 3_1/2-inch coupling from the system kit at the outer end. If not, use a 2_1/2-inch coupling from the collector kit at both ends. Tighten the Coupling Clamp. Tighten only until you see the rubber bulging into the slots in the clamp. Do not over-tighten.

Slide a Header Hold-Down Clamp over each Coupling and tighten only enough to hold it in place. See Figure 2.

Lift the collector to the roof and lay it down with the holes in the two Hold-Down Clamps alongside the two holes in the roof. Fill the holes with top grade silicone or urethane sealer and let some build up on the roof surface. Line up the Hold-Down Clamp holes with the holes in the roof and drive a hold-down screw through each hole.

Cut the tape holding the wrapping and let the collector unroll down the roof. Make sure the collector is hanging straight down the roof and that the inlet header at the bottom is parallel with the outlet header at the top. Attach a Coupling and a Hold-Down Clamp to each end of the bottom header and fasten the Hold-Down Clamps to the roof.

If you choose to fasten the absorber to the roof with Solarbond mastic adhesive mark the roof about 2 feet below the outlet header and every 4 feet below that until you are about 2 feet from the inlet header.

Now, referring toFigure 4, turn over each extrusion and apply a 2-inch long bead of mastic on its underside alongside each mark. Turn the extrusion back up and press area over the adhesive firmly onto the roof Repeat until all extrusions are cemented down.

Now you are ready to install the next collector. Add a Coupling and a Hold-Down Clamp to the end of the header that will be away from the first collector when the second collector is installed. Lift it to the roof and insert the end of the header into the coupling on the first collector outlet header after slipping a Coupling Clamp over it. Line up the Hold-Down Clamp on the second collector with the chalk line and drill a hole through the roof. Fill it with sealer and drive a hold-down screw through the hole as before.

Connect the inlet headers and fasten down the inlet header as you did the outlet header. Apply the Solarbond mastic to the second collector as you did the first. Continue the same sequence until you have installed all of the collectors. At the end of the last header in a row be sure that you use the correct Coupling. A short Coupling for an End Cap or Vacuum Relief Valve, a long Coupling for any other connection.

Strap Hold-Down Method

If you are installing the Hi-Temp solar collectors horizontally on a roof or rack sloping 22 degrees (3/12 slope) or less, you may use the strap hold-down method. You may also use it on any vertical solar collector installation or on a ground installation.

For a single solar collector 25 feet or less long use Part No. 1105 Hi-Temp Strap Hold-Down Kit, 25 Ft. For larger systems use Part No. 1104 Hi-Temp Strap Hold-Down Kit, 80 Ft. Add the lengths of all collectors and divide by 80 to determine how many 80-ft. kits you need.

Refer to Figure 3. The straps are located 4 feet apart along the absorber surface of the collector. After you have fastened down both ends of the first collector, divide its length by 4. If the result of your division is a whole number start at the first header and mark off 4-foot lengths as shown. If the result is not a whole number, split the fractional amount between the end straps so that there is no more than 4 feet between a header and the closest strap. Mark the strap locations on the roof at both ends of the collector array. Snap a chalk line between each pair of marks, across the first collector and on the roof

Measure out 1_1/4 inch from the outside edge of the first collector at each strap line. That will be where you drill the hole for the first Strap Bracket for each strap. Measure along each chalk line and drill a 3/16 diameter hole 49_1/2 inches between holes for each collector. Fill each hole with top grade silicone or polyurethane sealer and fasten a Strap Bracket with a 1/4-inch screw. The flat surface of the bracket with the slot must be parallel with side of the collector.

Cut the strap into lengths that are 12 inches longer than the distance from the first to the last Strap Brackets. Tie each strap to an outside Strap Bracket at the first collector and pass it through the slot in the Strap Bracket each time you add a collector. When you have finished the row pull the straps tight and tie them to the end Strap Brackets.

Assembly of Custom Collectors

You can easily assemble Hi-Temp custom collectors in any length up to 100 feet. We supply two standard injection molded headers. Both are 2 inches inside diameter. Part No. 2080 Hi-Temp Molded Header has an installed length of 49_1/2 inches. Part No. 2081 Hi-Temp Molded Header has an installed length of 26_1/4 inches. In addition, we supply Part No. 2013 Hi-Temp Header, Hip Roof or Valley. This is an assembled ABS header that you can run at 45 degrees along a hip or valley to pick up added collector area. It matches up with a 4-foot header at the other end.

Parts numbered 2080 and 2013 each have 50 barbed nipples and 2081 has 25 barbed nipples.

Part No. 4001 Hi-Temp Collector Mat is the 4.7-inch wide absorber extrusion in 250-foot rolls. It has 5 integral tubes. You simply cut it to length with shears and push the tubes over the nipples. We supply Part No. 4014 Assembly Spray in a pressure can to facilitate assembly.

If the extrusion roll ends between headers, you can connect the next roll to the end with Part No. 3013 Splice.

Solar System Piping

With either horizontal or vertical installation the inlet pipe bringing the water from the pool filter system must enter at one end at the lowest point on the collector row and must leave to return to the pool at the diagonally opposite highest point. Refer to Figures 1 and 3.

During freezing weather all water must be drained from the system. The system should drain back to the pool whenever the pump shuts down. To facilitate draining you should use a Part No. 1006 Vacuum Relief Valve Kit with any solar collector system that is more than three feet above the pool surface and has 300 square feet or more of collector surface. The vacuum relief valve is usually located at the highest point on the system. Use an end cap to close off the open header end.

For maximum heat to the pool it is important that you have maximum water flowing through the solar collectors. Therefore, any solar system with more than 300 square feet of collector surface should be connected to the pool filter system with 2-inch PVC schedule 40 pipe. The Hi-Temp System Kit and Split Row Kit each have CPVC adapters to connect the Couplings to 2-inch PVC pipe. This protects the PVC pipe from the high temperatures of dry solar collectors. Lay out your piping to run as straight as possible and have a minimum number of elbows. Provide for draining connecting piping when the pool is winterized.

Refer to Figure 5for piping between the pool filter system and the solar collectors.   Connect the three-port valve to the inlet pipe to the solar collectors. Connect the return pipe from the solar collectors from the highest point on the collector array to a tee in the return pipe to the pool. Connect the other leg of the tee to the 3-port valve. If the inlet header  connection is more than 3 feet above the pool surface you should install a check valve in the pipe between the filter and the 3-port valve. That will prevent back-washing debris from the filter into the pool when the pump shuts off and the water drains down from the collectors to the pool.

Control Installation

Install the motor driver on the 3-port control valve following directions packed with the valve. Install the pool sensor at any convenient place between the pump and the 3-port control valve. To install it drill a 3/8-inch diameter hole through one wall of the pipe and insert the sensor. Use the hose clamp to hold it in place. Install the solar sensor close to the solar collectors but not touching a collector or any pipe. Hold it to the roof with a screw, sealing the hole as before.

Locate the control panel within 10 feet of the 3-port control valve. Follow the instructions packed with the control. Caution: Unless you are a qualified electrician, hire a licensed electrician to make the high voltage connection between the control panel and the power supply to the pump. The control panel must be properly grounded and all electrical codes must be followed.

Connect the three low voltage valve motor driver wires to the terminals in the control panel following the color coding, black to "C", red to "NO" and white to "NC". Connect the low voltage sensor wires to the proper sensor terminals in the control panel. Use 22 gauge stranded weatherproof wire. (You can purchase wire from a home supply store.) A 100 foot roll is Part No. 5017 Sensor Wire. Use the compression connectors packed with the control to connect to the sensor wires.

Start-Up

This section describes starting an automatic system. If you are using a manual control valve the solar system is "ON” when the word "OFF” on the valve handle is across the pipe returning to the pool. The solar system is "OFF” when the word "OFF” is across the inlet pipe leading to the solar collectors.

With the pump on, switch the control to "ON". The "Power", "Heating and "Cooling" lights should be on and the control valve should turn to divert water through the solar collectors. If the valve turns to the position that diverts water to the pool, bypassing the solar system, turn the control off and reverse the red and white wires.

With the system on, the collectors should be purged of air in I to 3 minutes and the water returning to the pool should be free from air bubbles. After 5 minutes, feel the outlet end of each solar panel with the sun shining. They should be uniformly cool to the touch. That indicates that the solar collector is absorbing the maximum amount of energy from the sun and transferring it to the pool water. If you have two or more rows of collectors and one row feels warmer than another, you must correct the flow. Install a ball valve in either the supply or return line in the row that feels cooler. Throttle this valve until the temperature of the collectors on each row feels the same.

Switch the control to "OFF'. The valve should turn to divert water through the pipe that bypasses the solar collectors. Set the temperature control at least 10 degrees higher than the pool temperature and switch the control to "AUTO". The "Heating" light should come on and the valve should turn to divert all of the water through the solar collectors. If the light does not come on, disconnect the pool sensor wires at the panel and, temporarily "short" the solar sensor terminals. If the "Heating" light now comes on, you probably have a bad wiring connection to the solar sensor. Check the wires for continuity.

Set the temperature control to at least 10 degrees below the pool water temperature. The "Heating" light should go out and the valve should turn to divert water through the bypass pipe. If it does not, disconnect the solar sensor wires and temporarily "short" the pool sensor terminals. If the light now goes out you probably have a bad connection in the pool water sensor wiring.

For further trouble shooting information see the instructions packed with the control.

After you have confirmed that everything is working, set the control for the maximum desired pool temperature, put the control on "Auto" and the installation is complete.

Maintenance

If the solar system is piped in accordance with the instructions in this manual it will drain back to the pool by gravity after the pump has been turned off. When all water has drained from the solar system you may follow normal winterization procedures. Any piping that will not drain by gravity must be manually drained or blown out to prevent freeze damage.

In warm climates where the pool is kept open all year. A normal practice is to turn on the filter system and let warm water circulate through the solar collectors to keep them from freezing whenever light freezing conditions are expected. This operation can be automated with an optional recirculating freeze protection feature that automatically controls the pump and the solar system in response to signals from freeze sensors. Obviously, a recirculating freeze protection system works only when electricity is available.

Solar Collector Repair

A leak in the absorber tubing may be easily repaired with Part No. 3013 Splice. Cut through the tube at the leak and cut through the fin approximately 2 inches on either side of the cut. Insert the splice. Use liquid soap or Part No. 4014 Assembly Spray to facilitate insertion.